It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.īarbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. They were your deepest desire… At the same time, they were your adversary, your nemesis, even your mortal enemy… a dynamic indifferent world. Winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Biography 2016Įverything out there was disturbingly interlaced with everything else. Winner of the William Hill Sports Book of the Year 2016
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